U.S. sticker shock sets in

General rule of thumb I developed over the past month or so in China: For every yuan you’d spend there, you spend a dollar here. For example, I could get my hair washed and cut at a nice shop for 20 yuan in Yangzhou, and it’d be $15 to $20 here in Raleigh, a city of comparable size. OK, so it’s not exact — and there are all sorts of exceptions and qualifications — but you get the point. Think about it. That means, except for major expenses like a home, car or foreign-made technology, things like groceries and a restaurant meal typically run about six times cheaper in China, taking the exchange rate into account.

Ah, screw the explanation. It’s friggin’ expensive here!

Yes, China let me out

I’m back in the land of shorts and sandals, which no adult Chinese male, at least in Yangzhou, would be caught dead wearing. I’m groggy, but none the worse for wear, though it’s definitely the traveling part of traveling I hate most. Sadly, grace under pressure doesn’t belong on my modest list of strong suits.

Jianghai College arranged to have a driver pick me up at 9 a.m. Friday for the three- to four-hour drive to Shanghai Pudong airport, where I was to catch a 4:10 p.m. flight to Chicago. We were graciously accompanied by a teaching colleague, Fan Chun Xia. Xue Cai Ming, Lu Wen Juan and several other students with whom I’d grown close showed up at my dormitory to see me off.

The last few days had brought a whirlwind of late shopping and final farewells, which grew increasingly emotional until the thought of leaving had become difficult. I kept telling myself this was a good thing — better to have mixed feelings, to have met so many good people, to miss them, than to have been desperate to get out, thinking I had wasted a year.

I can’t see not going back at some point.

Anyway, a late start didn’t worry me. We had plenty of time. But I hadn’t built in the stop for a meal. I don’t care what you’re doing or where you’re going or why. In China, people stop at noon and 6, just about to the minute, for lunch and dinner. If you get injured seriously enough to require an ambulance there, I would suggest not doing so around noon or 6.

My mind started racing with worries about the early arrival time advised for international travelers, then worst-case scenarios. My old friend Panic stopped by. Taoism, Confucianism, Buddhism, contemplation, meditation, I needed them all.

After some rushing required to solve a problem paying for extra bags, I cut it a little close but made it. The rest was just waiting and losing sleep.

There’s so much I haven’t written about my experiences but still would like to write, so for the time being, the Rog-ect isn’t going anywhere.

Let me start this new chapter by recommending a couple of resources that have done a far better job than I of explaining and describing China. One is Middle Kingdom Life, a great guide to teaching in China and related topics, specifically geared toward expats. The other is “Serve The People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China,” by Jen Lin-Liu, which I just started reading. In the first several pages, I found more accurate insights about Chinese cuisine and classrooms than I had expressed in a year of blogging, i.e., students taking cell-phone calls during class, Chinese chefs not measuring any incredients. Plus, it’s got recipes, including Yangzhou fried rice.

I’m diving into the recipes as soon as I do some grocery shopping. And get a wok and a new knife. And a stove, preferably gas. And a new home for the stove. And … well, all in good time.

The farewell tour grows complicated

As the clock winds down — I’m to be picked up Friday morning — it’s getting increasingly difficult to extricate myself. Without further ado …

Small gifts, please. Small. As in not large.

I can’t make them stop. I’ve tried, believe me. My Jianghai College predecessor, Brian Cross, warned me about the parting gifts a month before I left for China. While here, I’ve bought a few things for myself, mostly clothes, and done plenty of shopping for folks back home. I’m bringing back a tad more than I left with.

Then the steady progression began: a decorative lacquer scene of Slender West Lake in Yangzhou, a 10-piece coffee-pot-and-mug-set, a smaller teapot and cup, a larger teacup, an even larger piggy bank in the shape of a rabbit. (Guess that would make it a bunny bank, right? It is, after all, the Year of the Rabbit.)

It finally got to the point that, worried about how to get all this stuff home, I told one of my students before a little class party Monday: Please, no gifts. “OK, sir.” That evening, he pulled out a big, wrapped box containing, well, a big, metal trophy in the form of an eagle, with wings spread. Naturally.

Oscar, an amiable student from another class, visited yesterday following several aborted attempts. Truth be told, I was dreading it. He arrived carrying what looked like a violin case.

“What’s in the case?” I asked suspiciously.

A violin. For me. Of course.

I know, I know. There’s an obvious solution: Send it all to the States. Which brings me to … Continue reading

The China Rog-ect awards a scholarship

Like so many of life’s stories, this one seemed potentially and deceptively simple at the start, only to turn into a saga.

The idea was to help a student named 薛彩明 — Xue Cài Míng — an oasis in the arid zone known as English and Trade 1001, a class of 32 freshmen who were about as easy to teach as getting turtles to pole dance. Not only was she one of the best English speakers, she busted her ass in class, worked part time at a nearby restaurant to pick up extra money, studied at all hours outside the classroom, all of which are extremely unusual for students here, and somehow managed to find the time to give me occasional Chinese lessons.

A couple of months ago, she’d told me excitedly that she might get a 1,500 RMB scholarship from Jianghai College, and that was the last I’d heard of it. When I asked her about it, she told me not to worry. From what she had told me about her upbringing, I knew the money would have meant a lot.

So, without knowing with any certainty what had happened, I decided to find a way to give her the money. The financial office at the college had no idea what I was getting at, and Han Lily, who is expecting, has been on bed rest. Instead, I turned to another friend and colleague, Fan Chun Xia, to find out how I could put 2,000 RMB in Xue Cài Míng’s college account toward her tuition.

I made clear I didn’t want to make a big deal about it, because gift-giving here can be complicated, and I doubted Xue Cài Míng would accept such a gift from me personally.

Naturally, Fan Chun Xia got back to me and informed me that everyone from the foreign languages dean to the college president was touched by my generosity, that a farewell party would be held in my honor and that a wad of cash in an envelope would be handed to a sure-to-be-mortified Xue Cài Míng.

Which is what happened. The dean had a chance to remind everyone there, including 60 freshmen, that he had pleaded with me unsuccessfully to stay another year (more on that to come). I even got to say a few words in Chinese, after which Fan Chun Xia translated my Chinese back into Chinese.

Indeed, Xue Cài Míng at first refused the first annual China Rog-ect Award For Currying Favor with the Foreign English Teacher, several times in fact, to the point that it got awkward. A couple of other teachers and the dean began to shift nervously in their seats, as if this might be some kind of potential loss-of-face moment that would require them to turn over the deed to Jianghai College to me. (Keep it!)

It all ended well (I think, I hope) after Xue Cài Míng cried during her speech, tried again to return the money, and finally relented after I repeatedly assured her how much it would mean to me to end my stay this way and that I just might give her a duck’s egg on the final exam if she persisted in rejecting this great China Rog-ect prize.*

Crisis averted, but there’s still time. Nine days left.

*Over the past several days, she seems to have come to terms with it, now referring to me as her American father, though she also seems determined to plough through the money by bringing me daily food and treats. I’ve now got enough to feed a family of four for a week with what I’m supposed to polish off in two days.

Odds and ends (零碎东西)?

The Chinese characters mean either “odds and ends” or “remnant fragment East West,” not sure which.

“Mental mistakes” in Chinese: Watching Game 6 of the NBA Finals on CCTV, as usual, I couldn’t decipher much of the Chinese commentators’ rapid-fire analysis. But at one point, I could have sworn I heard the words “mental mistake” after a Miami turnover. Nah, couldn’t be. A few minutes later, there, I heard it again.

“Mental mistake” is evidently Chinese for “mental mistake.”

It was great seeing Dirk Nowitzki, Jason Kidd and the Dallas Mavericks win their first title, but enough with the Nowitzki-Bird comparisons, please. As the Mavs were clinching the title, they juxtaposed Dirk shots with footage of Larry Bird in Game 6 of the Celtics’ victory over Houston in the 1986 Finals, when Bird put up 29 points, 11 rebounds, 12 assists and three steals. Dirk finished with 12 assists for the entire series. He couldn’t touch Bird’s passing genius.

For that matter, let’s call a moratorium on Kobe-Jordan comparisons, Lebron-MJ, Lebron-anyone at this point. Stop it. Just stop it.

Upstaged on the bus, for once: One sweltering afternoon, I’m sitting in the bus, waiting for it to leave the Jianghai College lot, when on steps a man with a basket of large, gray, squawking birds. They looked sort of like a cross between gray geese and pelicans, or gray geese and egrets, or … I don’t know, they were gray.*

From that point on, no one noticed the Westerner aboard. Which was fine. Did I mention it was hot? About halfway along the 20-minute trip, it was impossible not to notice that the odor was getting stronger. (Having given up my seat, I was standing nearer the birds by that time.)

Then, I looked down and noticed a puddle of yellow fluid, like a thin, watery yolk, slowly emanating from the basket. I mean, like, what? Do these things lay fried eggs? Do birds take a piss? I’m sorry, I’m not exactly an ornithologist here.

I began to feel weak-kneed and got off at the next stop, where I immediately became the subject of stares again. Almost wish the birds had gotten off with me. Almost.

Trouble redefining a label, let alone a life: Heard from an long-lost friend awhile back. After a warm exchange of niceties, as proof you can pick up a conversation wherever you left off 30 or so years ago, he acidly noted in one missive: “Hey, brainiac, you are not an ‘out-of-work’ journalist, as your blog subhead reads. If you get paid at the university, which I assume you do, then you’re working.”

Good point. I changed it to “laid-off” journalist. Thanks, Mark. (I had already changed “sportswriter” to “journalist” because I didn’t want to be defined only by sports. As long as I’m consumed by what to call myself, I may never actually have to decide what to do next.)

The origin of The Rog-ect: Meant to explain this eons ago. It goes way back to an inside joke among sportswriters at The News & Observer that I liked to assign impossible projects, i.e., “Hey, can you give me something on the history of sports by 5? And I really think you can keep it under 20 inches.”

I’m not sure I was ever that bad. OK, maybe.

*Upon further reflection, I’m guessing those birds were cormorants, which have been used to fish in Chinese rivers for hundreds of years. Trained and tethered by the throat, which prevents them  from swallowing larger fish, the birds are capable of diving deep for their catches. When I saw this done on CCTV, a light went on. It’s being done now more for tourists.

He Yuan, not to be confused with Ge Yuan

No, I haven’t forgotten how to post. Or write. It’s called 拖延 or tuoyán, Mandarin for “procrastination,” plus a bunch of other words I don’t feel like looking up (preparing for final exams, shopping, freelancing, career planning) because I’m too busy procrastinating.

Anyway, here are some shots from two recent side trips — one to He Yuan, a beautiful home and garden, like Ge Yuan, in Yangzhou, and one to Dong Quan Men, an alley lined with shops and restaurants in the old city. On one wall at He Yuan hangs what looks like an old class photo with a young Mao, who visited.

Before I forget, everyone chant with me: Li Na! Li Na! Li Na! Li Na! At age 29, she broke through and gave China its first Grand Slam tennis title, winning the French Open. Cool. Extra sweet because she beat two screamers — Maria Sharapova and Francesca Schiavone, who punctuate every shot by yelling — in the semis and final.

Hers is an interesting story of breaking away from both her husband as a coach and the Chinese government’s sports system, thanks to an experimental reform policy.

Oh, and happy Dragon Boat Festival, everyone. The zong zi, a glutinous rice dumpling wrapped in bamboo or corn stalk leaves, is to die for. Shaped like small pyramids, they’re filled with all sorts of things — red beans, chestnuts, pork fat, meat and, of course, the ever-popular golden yolk of a salted duck egg.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

An argument for forks

They’re ubiquitous, those half-size kuàizi, whenever and wherever you order anything to go here, so it stands to reason that a lot of wood is being used. A “Strange But True” item in the March issue of The World of Chinese reports that China uses 45 billion pairs of disposable, wooden chopsticks each year, accounting for 16 million to 25 million trees being felled.

The Statistical Yearbook of China’s Forestry reported different numbers — 23 billion pairs used in 2009, 1,520,000 trees felled — but you get the point. In December, to raise awareness, Greenpeace and Beijing artist Xu Yinhai created a “disposable forest” made of chopsticks (scroll down for the photo).

The environmental organization recommends choosing a restaurant that uses sterilized kuàizi or bringing your own.

The World of Chinese is a good resource for a foreigner, or lăowài (老外), teaching English in China to learn more about the culture while picking up language tips and class discussion ideas.